Thermostat Question...

[PapaTango]

Where exactly is the thermostat located on our engines? Are there any gaskets or o-rings to worry about if the thermostat has to be removed and replaced?

Thanks in advance for any assistance.

[BlackMach]

The stock 180 degree thermostat is not attached to the engine, it's located on the radiator hoses in a "Junction Box" of types, lower left (drivers side) between the radiator and the engine. As for gaskets, silicone gasket sealant will do the trick.

[buckholdj]

No need to change the thermostat on our cars. It already is a 180 degree one stock!

[PapaTango]

Originally posted by buckholdj
No need to change the thermostat on our cars. It already is a 180 degree one stock!

Yeah, found that out doing a search on my original question. I'm looking at a programmer and going with a lower temp thermostat and fan settings.

BlackMach, thanks for the info.

[mopacmach]

Originally posted by PapaTango
Where exactly is the thermostat located on our engines? Are there any gaskets or o-rings to worry about if the thermostat has to be removed and replaced?

Thanks in advance for any assistance. Blackmach is right, however it is not neccessary yo use any sealant. The factory does not use any sealant, just an o-ring. I have had mine apart 4 times with no leakage. Just be careful when you put it back together that you position to o-ring properly as you tighten the two halves back together.

[mopacmach]

Forgot to mention: I was concerned about my engine temperature, since my predator was indicating that it was running between 188-196 degrees, despite the 180 degree stock thermostat. The dummies at the Ford dealer said anything between 160-200 was "acceptable" and that Ford would not pay them to look into the matter. So I bought another 180 degree thermostat and ECT switch and put them both in. The engine now averages reading 182-190, or about 6 degrees less.... Like I have been saying for the last 25 years or so "What good is a warrantee if they can't or won't fix the car?"

[mach1fan35]

Originally posted by mopacmach
Forgot to mention: I was concerned about my engine temperature, since my predator was indicating that it was running between 188-196 degrees, despite the 180 degree stock thermostat. The dummies at the Ford dealer said anything between 160-200 was "acceptable" and that Ford would not pay them to look into the matter. So I bought another 180 degree thermostat and ECT switch and put them both in. The engine now averages reading 182-190, or about 6 degrees less.... Like I have been saying for the last 25 years or so "What good is a warrantee if they can't or won't fix the car?" All that for 6 degrees. Sheeesh!! Overkill no?

[mopacmach]

Originally posted by mach1fan35
All that for 6 degrees. Sheeesh!! Overkill no? You would think so, until you realize that my Mach1 has LOST ABOUT 30 HORSEPOWER since around May this year and no one seems to be able to help me figure out exactly why!!!!!!!!! The Ford dealers haven't got a clue and tell me that it feels strong to them. I have tried a Superchips Max tuner and a Diablosport Predator to no avail. I admit that I do not have as much experience with these newer Mustangs (99&up) as I would like, but I have had more experience on high performance cars and how to make them run hard than any 10 average mechanics out there. I am not exagerating nor am I imaging anything. I have owned my Mach1 since January 2004. I was very happy with the way it ran. When I took it to the dragstrip it ran 13.1 @ 106-108.73 mph, showroom stock except for K&N. I made several dozen runs (5 trips). With ET streets it ran 12.73. The last times out it ran 13.1 @ 104mph (same 60ft time as 12.73 pass) The loss of about 4mph equates to over 30 horsepower! Since I was happy with the car originally, and had no interest in going quicker, I had no reason to dyno it. I did dyno the car before going to the track the last time, But I do not exactly trust the #s since it is not a dyno that I have ever heard of before (Dyno dynamics) It showed 281.6hp BUT It looks like they used a correction factor of 1.17 so maybe it was only making 241rwhp? Any how I did not want to lose my warrantee, but at the same time I need it to run the way it used to....By the way, I switched to 4.10 gears in June, but it made absolutely no improvement in my 1/4 mile times.

[mach1fan35]

Originally posted by mopacmach
You would think so, until you realize that my Mach1 has LOST ABOUT 30 HORSEPOWER since around May this year and no one seems to be able to help me figure out exactly why!!!!!!!!! The Ford dealers haven't got a clue and tell me that it feels strong to them. I have tried a Superchips Max tuner and a Diablosport Predator to no avail. I admit that I do not have as much experience with these newer Mustangs (99&up) as I would like, but I have had more experience on high performance cars and how to make them run hard than any 10 average mechanics out there. I am not exagerating nor am I imaging anything. I have owned my Mach1 since January 2004. I was very happy with the way it ran. When I took it to the dragstrip it ran 13.1 @ 106-108.73 mph, showroom stock except for K&N. I made several dozen runs (5 trips). With ET streets it ran 12.73. The last times out it ran 13.1 @ 104mph (same 60ft time as 12.73 pass) The loss of about 4mph equates to over 30 horsepower! Since I was happy with the car originally, and had no interest in going quicker, I had no reason to dyno it. I did dyno the car before going to the track the last time, But I do not exactly trust the #s since it is not a dyno that I have ever heard of before (Dyno dynamics) It showed 281.6hp BUT It looks like they used a correction factor of 1.17 so maybe it was only making 241rwhp? Any how I did not want to lose my warrantee, but at the same time I need it to run the way it used to....By the way, I switched to 4.10 gears in June, but it made absolutely no improvement in my 1/4 mile times. Have you made any mods since those first runs?? 6 degrees is not going to make that kind of difference. They will run leaner and faster for a time after changing to a k&n. Once the computer relearns. It will likely pull a little timing and add a little fuel to compensate. Your maf could have a little oil on it maybe? I dont know. It would bug me too, just 6 degrees is not going to do that. Good luck!!:THUMBSUP:

[rsnider]

When my Predator was delivered it had a 160 deg. thermostat in the bag? Has anyone else been given this t-stat with their delivery? Should I install it? No information with the directions.

Any info? And I don't want to hear "Call Diablo"!!! You need some kind of secret code to get through their phone system.

[RunninRed]

There are way to many factors to figure in when it comes to your times. Track conditions, weather, humidity, elevation, headwind, tailwind, etc... 6 degrees hotter or colder isnt going to affect it that much.

Hell my best 1/4 mile time came when I hot lapped my car. Go figure :SMASH:

[killer55]

Hook up your Predator and check the real time data timing.

Most likely the Knock Sensors are pulling timing on the top end
thus causing the problem you are having.

[mopacmach]

I know that on a carbureted, non computer controlled engine a change of 6 degrees in coolant temperature will make very little, if any, difference in 1/4 mile times. My concern is that my Mach's knock sensors probably are the problem. The thing is, that no one I talk to can tell me exactly how they function. I am trying to figure out what could have changed/gone wrong with my engine to cause this loss of power. I do not know if their is something in the computor programming that may increase the sensitivity of the knock sensors when the computor is being told that the engine is running hotter than it should. I recently disconnected the connector located under the mass-air, near the valve cover, that leads to the Knock-sensors. After road testing I saw timing at high rpm/load between 20-22 degrees. This compares to 14-15 degrees with it hooked up. This leads me to believe that the knock-sensors are indeed retarding my timing. There is no sign of pre-ignition/pinging/knock and I am sure that it will run even better with more advance. I will be doing more testing over the next month or so but for now the weather is bad and I will not be able to use a dyno till end of January.