Plasma Booster?????

[bayrunner]

What about a plasma booster along with breather and exhaust? will it make a difference as far as performance?

thanks in advance

[1WiCKEDMach]

I heard that they arent good to put on the mach, unless you are running a power adder. The best performance items for the mach are: Cold air, highflow cats/offroad, gears, and dragradials.

[Mach1Marauder]

Originally posted by 1WiCKEDMach
I heard that they arent good to put on the mach, unless you are running a power adder. The best performance items for the mach are: Cold air, highflow cats/offroad, gears, and dragradials.

I'd leave it alone even then! VOO DOO!! LOL
Just go to a tr6 or tr7 and gap 'em down on a S/C application.

[Martin99ACR]

I don't mind it.. I did notice a slight difference on how hard the Mach pulls, But for $300 dollars, I would rather have bought a larger MAF or diff throttle body..
I only keep it bc it lights up the engine when I turn it on to show people:D

[Lonestar 7]

I have the Plasma Booster and it rocks! I was around when people said MSD was Voodoo till they got here butts kicked at the track. I also have the NGK Iridium plugs and the C&L cold air kit. With these mods I get better mileage and throttle response the engine runs much smoother. Hopefully soon I will have the funds to add a Borala Stinger cat back which should also help. I also plan to add Pauls intake spacer too. These Mach's sure get expensive. Try Rpmoutlet for a good price on the Plasma Booster. Yes if you have a blower or turbo or Nos it will help you even more.:THUMBSUP:

[Mach1Marauder]

Originally posted by Lonestar 7
I have the Plasma Booster and it rocks! I was around when people said MSD was Voodoo till they got here butts kicked at the track. I also have the NGK Iridium plugs and the C&L cold air kit. With these mods I get better mileage and throttle response the engine runs much smoother. Hopefully soon I will have the funds to add a Borala Stinger cat back which should also help. I also plan to add Pauls intake spacer too. These Mach's sure get expensive. Try Rpmoutlet for a good price on the Plasma Booster. Yes if you have a blower or turbo or Nos it will help you even more.:THUMBSUP:
With those mods that you plan and the NGK Iridium plugs, your knock sensors will be pulling timing in the upper rpms. If you don't get a tune and fatten it up, you will see tiny deposits on your plugs. Those deposits are your pistons!
The C&L cold air comes with their MAF right? C&L MAFs really make their HP by leaning out the A/F ratio and pure he ll to get the MAF transfer nice and stable.
I'm pretty sure the smoothness and pep that you got when installing the new plugs and the Voo DOO Blaster was due solely to the plugs. I installed the plugs and I was amazed how much smoother and more responsive the car was. I put a sniffer up the pipe and the HC were very very low! I don't see how the plasma booster can help a N/A car at your level of mods! The car is already burning almost all of the fuel and what's left is of no matter. There MAY be some help in a S/C application, with blow out, but gapping down the plugs does the trick as well as stepping down in heat ranges
For $300 there are MUCH more useful mods out there!

VOO DOO!!!!!!!!:D

[MustangMarkus]

Sure my Bullitt is a 2V, but I also had opted for the plasma booster, and while on the dyno, I pulled with the booster, then took it off, and ran without it. I gained a net of about 2 hp with it on, and not changing any of the parameters. I am n/a with some bolt ons. It is a hunk of junk, and got sold to some other voo doo believer on ebay for what I paid for it. I don't think this is a mod for non-power adder vehicles...just my $0.02.

[BLKCLOUD]

Here's my dyno results. Same dyno, same day, all runs within 45 minutes of each other, engine hot. Internally-stock 99 Cobra motor with basic bolt-ons. We made two runs with the PB, two runs without the PB. Best of without and with are shown.

http://members.cox.net/blkcloud/images/pbdyno.jpg

NOTE: 6300 - 7000 rpm decrease in blue line (with PB) should probably be discounted, as obviously something else was going on. Bottom line, there is little to no difference with and without the PB.

Draw your own conclusions on whether or not it is worth it. I threw mine in the garbage.

[Mach1Marauder]

Originally posted by BLKCLOUD
Here's my dyno results. Same dyno, same day, all runs within 45 minutes of each other, engine hot. Internally-stock 99 Cobra motor with basic bolt-ons. We made two runs with the PB, two runs without the PB. Best of without and with are shown.



NOTE: 6300 - 7000 rpm decrease in blue line (with PB) should probably be discounted, as obviously something else was going on. Bottom line, there is little to no difference with and without the PB.

Draw your own conclusions on whether or not it is worth it. I threw mine in the garbage.

Well the blue line was the first run. Amost all N/A 4Vs I've seen tend to go fat 6200-7000 range.........MAYBE a little hotter spark was burning more fuel, accounts for the TINY increase in the second run. I agree...............NOT WORTH THE $$$$$$!

[BLKCLOUD]

Originally posted by Mach1Marauder
Well the blue line was the first run. Amost all N/A 4Vs I've seen tend to go fat 6200-7000 range.........MAYBE a little hotter spark was burning more fuel, accounts for the TINY increase in the second run. I agree...............NOT WORTH THE $$$$$$!

The red line is without the PB. I got there with it hooked up. We made a couple of passes, then disconnected the ground, and made a couple more.

The 6300+ rpm decrease was actually the beginnings of a mass-air meter going sour. It should be ignored, and the blue line (with PB) extrapolated to what it would have been with a good MAF unit....ie....about the same as without the PB.

[Mach1Marauder]

Originally posted by BLKCLOUD
The red line is without the PB. I got there with it hooked up. We made a couple of passes, then disconnected the ground, and made a couple more.

The 6300+ rpm decrease was actually the beginnings of a mass-air meter going sour. It should be ignored, and the blue line (with PB) extrapolated to what it would have been with a good MAF unit....ie....about the same as without the PB.

Strange...........you were already pegging the MAF at 6300? Hmmmmmm......have you checked the MAF transfer and adjusted it?

[BLKCLOUD]

Originally posted by Mach1Marauder
Strange...........you were already pegging the MAF at 6300? Hmmmmmm......have you checked the MAF transfer and adjusted it?
No, I was not pegging the MAF. The electronics were going bad. The fix was another stock MAF meter.

[Lonestar 7]

I hate to say this old Bill but your all wet go lie down you have a fever and have lost your mind. Companies spend many hours developing and testing there products. C&L does extensive dyno work and would not release a product that did not work or was harmful and the same for Ignition solutions. You’re just a guy that has a false sense of reality going on. You have a right to your opinion but that’s all you have and you happen to be dead wrong!:THUMBSUP:

[Mach1Marauder]

Originally posted by Lonestar 7
I hate to say this old Bill but your all wet go lie down you have a fever and have lost your mind. Companies spend many hours developing and testing there products. C&L does extensive dyno work and would not release a product that did not work or was harmful and the same for Ignition solutions. You’re just a guy that has a false sense of reality going on. You have a right to your opinion but that’s all you have and you happen to be dead wrong!:THUMBSUP:

Hmmmmmm.........how come I've seen about 6 different C&L MAFs that the MAF transfer wavered all over the place and know of many REAL tuners that have seem way more of them doing exactly the same.
Ask any SCTdealer/ tuner, if he'd rather set up the MAF transfer on a stock, C&L or ProM MAF. I think the C&L would come in last!