Stealth MIL Eliminators

[sutyak]

Well after trying some MILs I bought from a guy on Corral.net classifieds that didn't work, I decided to make my own. :mad:
I followed the diagram posted on CougarDB.com (http://www.cougardb.com/howtoshow.php?howtoid=8)
It was VERY easy.

The grey wire gets a 1 Mega Ohm Resitor installed in line, and a 1 micro farad Capcitor spans the black wire and the grey wire (between the resistor and wiring harness).
I soldered the wires and then coated the bare wires in epoxy.
The best part is they worked! :HOPPY:

http://www.mach1registry.org/photopost/data/500/55MILS_stripped-med.jpg

[sutyak]

close up:
http://www.mach1registry.org/photopost/data/500/55MILS_closeup-med.jpg

[sutyak]

Complete! (yes this is an after pic) :D

http://www.mach1registry.org/photopost/data/500/55MILS_complete-med.jpg

[2k4mach]

nice:THUMBSUP:

[Jester]

....and Steeda and all the performance shops/parts sellers want $50-$60 dollars for that?:SMASH: That's ridiculous. Someone is making some SERIOUS cash. Still waiting on my homemade ones too:rolleyes:

Good job, Mark!:CHEERS:

[sutyak]

I'll have to look at my receipt again, but I think a 5 pack of resistors and the 2 capacitors cost me like $4.xx
A $10 soldering iron from Radio Shack and it's STILL way cheaper than buying MILs! :LAUGH:

Parts list from Radio Shack:
#2721434 - 1 micro farad capacitor (1 per pack)
#27211356 - 1 mego Ohm resistor (5 per pack) 1/2 or 1/4 watt

Here (http://www.cougardb.com/howtoimages/scem.gif) is the schematic for the circuit from CougarDB.com

[machburger]

Are they still working after a few heat cycles? If so, I'm going to do mine when my prochamber gets here.

[yeehawjester]

I bought the $19.99 ones off of ebay that are exactly what you have except that the capacitor and resistors on mine came wrapped in a heat shield. Put them on a while back and still no MIL! $60 from Steeda=highway robbery. Shame.

[sutyak]

Originally posted by machburger
Are they still working after a few heat cycles? If so, I'm going to do mine when my prochamber gets here.

I just did them, and I haven't driven my car in a couple days.
I'll post again after they've been on for a while.

[sutyak]

Well, my check engine light came on on the way to work.
:wall: :wall: :wall:

I'll try again this weekend. :(

[machburger]

The capacitor you used doesn't look like the one cougardb used.

[machburger]

His looks more like a part # 272-996 1.0 mfd capacitor.

[sutyak]

Yes you're right. The ones I used were 35V, and the one you posted is 50V.
I simply followed the diagram provided by that person, and didn't worry about it when it didn't look like the same capacitor.
Diagram here (http://www.cougardb.com/howtoimages/scem.gif)

I'm going to contact the guy and see what he says.

[spanky192]

are the caps bipolar? does it matter which lead i put on which wire? i tried doing this using that same schematic a while ago and my light came back after a week or two. i'm trying it again this time with a pc board like on that site (i soldered the resistors and caps directly on the wires like you did the first time) the cap has one short(-) lead and one long(+) lead but on the schematic it doesn't specify which is + or - so i am not sure if it matters or not

[DanK]

Well sporadic, keep plugging away at it and see if that new part works. Electronics and eny car electrical has always been pretty much foreign to me. It looks like even I could handle that if it turns out the new parts work. Good luck and keep us posted.:THUMBSUP:

[sutyak]

Well I made new ones and used a 1/2 watt resistor instead.
I also used the pcb board and quick-connects like in the photo above.
I still used 35V capacitors.
They've been on since Friday and so far so good.
I'll make a full post with pics once I'm convinced they're not going to go out like the previous (trial) set did.
Spanky I don't think there's a polarity on the capacitors, but I do see what you mean about the + symbol.
Oops. Well that's something else to consider if these don't work! :D

[spanky192]

well here is my 2nd attempt

[spanky192]

i made them into extensions using connectors i pulled from the junkyard instead of soldering it directly on the o2 sensors