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H-TownMachI
07-23-2004, 01:39 AM
Has anyone done the fan switch mod (http://www.shane.roberts.net/fan.htm) to there Mach. Looks like a good idea for between runs at the track and is pretty straight forward.

04 Mach one
07-23-2004, 10:03 AM
I'll let you know how it goes....I'm doing mine today.
Hope it works:rolleyes:

WarpdSpazm
07-23-2004, 11:47 AM
I like that... Simply and very useful in both traffic (NYC rush hour?) and track situations.

Only thing I'd do different is get a better on/off switch and perhaps find a nicer place.

P Machy
07-23-2004, 01:59 PM
Originally posted by H-TownMachI
Has anyone done the fan switch mod (http://www.shane.roberts.net/fan.htm) to there Mach. Looks like a good idea for between runs at the track and is pretty straight forward.

its one of the easiest thing to do. click on my sig to see futher pictures for an easier ref :THUMBSUP:

bad deal is that it drains the battery. cools the water temps pretty quick as long as the ambient temps arent in the high 80's to 90's.

BONESTOCK
08-17-2004, 04:54 AM
Probably a dumb question but with the switch in the off position, will the fan still turn on like normal? At the 210degrees F?

Thanks,
Mike

RotaryMagic
08-17-2004, 04:59 AM
what about a 160 degree thermostat? and is there anyway to get the fans to stay on **** near ALL the time?

BONESTOCK
08-17-2004, 06:13 AM
Originally posted by RotaryMagic
what about a 160 degree thermostat? and is there anyway to get the fans to stay on **** near ALL the time?

I heard that if we put in a 160 we need to update the CPU probably via a chip.

Fill
08-17-2004, 07:29 AM
Originally posted by H-TownMachI
Has anyone done the fan switch mod (http://www.shane.roberts.net/fan.htm) to there Mach. Looks like a good idea for between runs at the track and is pretty straight forward.

I did this mod about 2 weeks ago and it helps cool down at the track. It does not interfere with the normal automatic operation of the fan.

Sapperstang
08-17-2004, 08:36 PM
I think I will do this Mod.

Fosters
08-18-2004, 03:24 AM
would love to see someone do this mod + a meziere water pump wired the same way... 2 little switches... turn on fan, 1 min later when radiator cools off a bit, turn on water pump... would work wonders, I bet :)

Phil
08-18-2004, 06:26 AM
Originally posted by Fosters
would love to see someone do this mod + a meziere water pump wired the same way... 2 little switches... turn on fan, 1 min later when radiator cools off a bit, turn on water pump... would work wonders, I bet :)


I run a manual switch for the electric water pump and manual switch for the fan.

H-TownMachI
08-18-2004, 08:00 PM
Originally posted by Phil
I run a manual switch for the electric water pump and manual switch for the fan.

How is your drycell battery holding up with the power needed for fan and pump (ignition off)? I have the Odyssey 680 and run my pump at the track. I have left in on for approximately 20 minutes before and car started with no problems.

Phil
08-18-2004, 09:16 PM
Originally posted by H-TownMachI
How is your drycell battery holding up with the power needed for fan and pump (ignition off)? I have the Odyssey 680 and run my pump at the track. I have left in on for approximately 20 minutes before and car started with no problems.

I have the Odyssey 680 also!

Right after a run, I turn my fan on heading back to the staging lanes/pits. Than when I shut down I turn back on the water pump and fan for about 5 minutes. Than turn water pump off and let fan run another 5 min or so, periodically turning water pump on/off. This way you get the water in radiator cool before circulating it. Than you will reach a point when the thermostat will close so, keeping the pump on after this point is not helping much. Just circulating hot coolant before the thermostat closes without the fan on takes much longer to cool.

I was able to really cool down the engine fast this way. Plus, with the fan you are blowing air onto the motor and heads which really helps. I have had no problems with starting. Next mod is to get a real temperature gauge so I know when I'm down to 180 degrees and below.

Phil
08-18-2004, 09:52 PM
Here is a pic of my switch location. The LED switch on left is for my water pump. As long as the red LED light is on, I know the pump is running. I have it wired so, if fuse blows or relay fries the light goes out and I know the pump is not running.

The switch on right is for manual cooling fan.

H-TownMachI
08-18-2004, 10:02 PM
Originally posted by Phil
I have the Odyssey 680 also!

Right after a run, I turn my fan on heading back to the staging lanes/pits. Than when I shut down I turn back on the water pump and fan for about 5 minutes. Than turn water pump off and let fan run another 5 min or so, periodically turning water pump on/off. This way you get the water in radiator cool before circulating it. Than you will reach a point when the thermostat will close so, keeping the pump on after this point is not helping much. Just circulating hot coolant before the thermostat closes without the fan on takes much longer to cool.

I was able to really cool down the engine fast this way. Plus, with the fan you are blowing air onto the motor and heads which really helps. I have had no problems with starting. Next mod is to get a real temperature gauge so I know when I'm down to 180 degrees and below.

:THUMBSUP:

Also, did you wire your light on the switch into the blue wire on the pump and to a ground?

I am using the 99-00 fog light switch that mounts where the coin holder is. It also has a light.

Phil
08-18-2004, 11:24 PM
Originally posted by H-TownMachI
:THUMBSUP:

Also, did you wire your light on the switch into the blue wire on the pump and to a ground?

I am using the 99-00 fog light switch that mounts where the coin holder is. It also has a light.



Don't remember exactly how I wired it ( I would have to go and look) but, if I remove fuse or disconnect relay the red LED goes out along with pump.


The fog light switch is nice factory look. I mounted my nitrous arming switch in place of the coin holder.