JLT RAI dyno - plus 5.9HP and 4.1 TRQ (long post)

[Warp1]

I took the Mach back to the dyno with the JLT RAI installed. I had only put 60 miles on the car with the RAI. What I got wasn't exactly what I was hoping for:

My first three pulls all showed that I was now running richer, and the best of those was only basically a tie (small gain in HP and small loss in torque) with my best stock run. All numbers for both stock and modded runs are SAE corrected by the way.

Chris (dyno tech) said we could try disconnecting the battery for an extended period, and then reconnect and do one more run to see if the computer would lean it out a bit. We did that, and got slightly better peak numbers, and a few noteable (10 HP/trq) gains in various mid to upper RPM ranges, and retained the slight (up to 5 HP/trq) losses in the low RPMs that were also there in the first three pulls. The computer had leaned it out a bit in the mid to upper RPMs.

My best stock dyno peak numbers were 280.8 HP and 306.8 lbs torque. My new best peak numbers are 286.7 HP and 310.9 lbs torque. That's a peak gain of 5.9 HP and 4.1 lbs torque – somewhat less than expected.

Peak numbers don't tell all - I'll post the dyno when I get a chance. The mentioned gains were all above 3600 RPMs, and as I stated were sometimes as much as 10 HP and 10 torque. That's useable gains and I like it, but I was hoping for an even better gain in the torque department at least, and certainly not dreaming of power loss anywhere in the RPM range. So I have to say the gains are nice but the low end loss - though not much - is just not cool in my mind.

With all that said, I think the gains for this intake are at least right in line with most of similar design that I’ve read about. It’s a nice looking intake, and it’s easy to install. I also believe it’s less expensive than the competition.

Even beyond that I think that if I had done things differently as suggested by the 4th dyno run, I would have had higher dyno’s right from the start.

I should have:

1. Disconnected the battery for at least 25 minutes after the install
2. Driven the car like a bat out of hell throughout the RPM range as soon as I had the battery reconnected
3. Continued driving like a bat out of hell for some time :)
4. Waited 100 miles before going to the dyno

Overall I think this is a pretty good mod. The engine compartment looks cleaner, and the peak horsepower and torque did go up.

Edit: By the way, does anyone have any ideas on how to lean this thing out again, and pull that extra power out without a tune?
Also, do any of you guys that have it (and got those great results) think I might have done something wrong that may have affected my increases?

[Blue04]

i had a feeling it was hyped up a bit

[ShakeMe]

Why is that setup called a Ram Air kit. Is that the one that sucks in all the hot air from the engine compartment? The one that puts the filter and MAS in the well looks like the ticket. I'm pretty sure it would gain 10-12 RWHP.

[H-TownMachI]

Offroad x or h should get you close to 300rwhp. While you are doing that you might as well install catback or weld-in mufflers.

[redgt2002]

thanks for the research!

[fanofstang]

Originally posted by ShakeMe
Why is that setup called a Ram Air kit. Is that the one that sucks in all the hot air from the engine compartment? The one that puts the filter and MAS in the well looks like the ticket. I'm pretty sure it would gain 10-12 RWHP. yeah, the RAI kit didn't really make sense to me - why would you pay money to pull hot air in? just disconnect that shaker and get the same thing. i went with the CAI based solely on the fact that it will make more power by pulling in cold air.

[RotaryMagic]

I hate when people bash the kits when they buy the wrong one haha. Shaker is for looks, nothing else.

[H-TownMachI]

Originally posted by fanofstang
yeah, the RAI kit didn't really make sense to me - why would you pay money to pull hot air in? just disconnect that shaker and get the same thing. i went with the CAI based solely on the fact that it will make more power by pulling in cold air.

Some people actually live where it rains A LOT. Having the filter in the position where it is with the CAI is not good when driving in the rain or through deep water or puddles. Just a thought.

[Warp1]

Yep H-TownMach1 has got it right. I get enough rain around here that the CAI wasn't a practical choice. Also, thanks for the exhaust suggestion. :THUMBSUP:

RotaryMagic said "I hate when people bash the kits when they buy the wrong one haha."

I'm not bashing the JLT CAI, just reporting my findings with my stock Mach1. That's what everyone was wanting, an unbiased test on a stock Mach1. That's what I gave you. I don't know the guy who sells them, I bought it, installed it, drove with it, and then took it to the dyno shop I originally dyno'd at so we could all benefit from the info. I'm just telling it how it is - not complaining about it. :THUMBSUP:

redgt2002 said "Thanks for the research!" I think redgt2002 got the point of this post.

Shakeme said “Why is that setup called a Ram Air kit. Is that the one that sucks in all the hot air from the engine compartment? The one that puts the filter and MAS in the well looks like the ticket. I'm pretty sure it would gain 10-12 RWHP.”

Some people asked why it was called a ram air kit. Good question! :) I don't know the answer.
I think they claimed lower gains for the RAI as opposed to the CAI so no new info here. Also, with the setup I have, the air being drawn in comes from the fender, scoop, and front opening (grill) and it’s not really that hot as long as the car is in motion. After driving I’ve popped the hood immediately and touched the RAI/filter etc. They are just warm.

Just an update - I've been driving the hell out of this thing to get the computer to lean toward the higher (lean haha) power end of things. It's so funny when people in SUV's think they can outrun you from a stoplight :) or at all for that matter. Okay, off topic.

Thanks for all the comments. If anyone has any idea how to lean this thing back out without chipping it, or just get the horsepower boost I was expecting, please post.

I’ve also emailed Tucker to ask if he could suggest anything I may have done wrong in the installation. I'm not ruling out that this may be my fault. Also, it may just be my Mach1. She dyno'd high stock, maybe there isn't much for her to gain without serious mods.
:THUMBSUP:

[redgt2002]

hey, i am assuming that the MAF screen is not used with the RAI correct?

if so, then i think you should get the PHP intake spacer. The combo should work well together and that should lean out your a/f a little.

[Warp1]

Originally posted by redgt2002
hey, i am assuming that the MAF screen is not used with the RAI correct?

if so, then i think you should get the PHP intake spacer. The combo should work well together and that should lean out your a/f a little.

You're right, the screen isn't used. I'll check into the spacer. I'm not sure at all yet what it is, or does.

Thanks for pointing me in a direction. :THUMBSUP:

[WhtMach1]

There's a dyno test of the spacer over at Mach1review.com. 3HP and 14 TQ.
http://www.mach1review.com/PHPSpacerReview.html

[fanofstang]

Originally posted by H-TownMachI
Some people actually live where it rains A LOT. Having the filter in the position where it is with the CAI is not good when driving in the rain or through deep water or puddles. Just a thought. I have never seen, nor heard, of anyone ever having a problem with a fender mounted CAI on a mustang regardless of weather and I have been modding stangs for a few years. Maybe it has happened, but that would have to be a DEEP puddle. Kinda makes you wonder about someone driving a stang in a puddle that deep anyway, because it would have to be DEEP.

[Warp1]

In recent rains we've had cars floating off the road. I think that's deep enough to bring some concern when you only have one car and it's your daily driver. Not that it happens a lot, but it does happen.

Here's a recent senario: You drive in to work, all is fine. By noon, the streets are not visible, the waters are over the curbs by over a foot...

And yes, that's a big puddle.

[Tucker]

Originally posted by Blue04
i had a feeling it was hyped up a bit
I take this statment personal. Hyped up meaning "Lying? BSing? fudging the truth?" If this is what you mean then, in know way was this hyped up. The dyno I did on the Red MACH was for real. I even posted a video of the run and sheets. My test on the 99 Cobra (basiclly the same) got huge gains.

I can't explain the results Warp got. It dosen't make any sence. If the removal of the MAF screen got 5.0 mag 7 HP and just a stock filter change got 6hp, then somethings a miss!! Losing power at points in the RPM range is odd too!
It just don't add up.

Install is a no brainer, so I'm sure thats right. I'm stumped.:confused:

As far as why put a filter in the engine compartment?: More air (even warmer air) is better than, a restricted less volume of air.
Cars have been doing this for years.
I agree, if you can, run the CAI to get the colder air.

As I said before, I'm stumped at these results. Theres a lot more Mach kits out there so more independent testing will be coming I'm sure

[Warp1]

I think I did the install alright. Here's a few pics of my dyno sheets, and the installed intake on my Mach. Sorry, they are pics not scans. They are very large files, so I'll just give links.

First is a dyno sheet showing my original (stock) dyno along with my JLT dyno. Notice the A/F differences at the bottom.

Both dyno's (http://members.cox.net/warp1/bothdynos.jpg)

Second is the JLT dyno by itself

JLT only (http://members.cox.net/warp1/jltdyno.jpg)

Third is a pic of the engine compartment after install so you might see if anything looks amiss

Installed (http://members.cox.net/warp1/jltinstalled.jpg)

[Tucker]

It's pig rich, but why wasn't the one I tested???
The computer is seeing the air temp differance and adding fuel and ( I bet) pulling timing.
I don't understand.
How many miles are on your car? If under 1000, I'd re-dyno @ 2000 to see what's up. If more, then I have no clue!:confused:

[Warp1]

Originally posted by Tucker
It's pig rich, but why wasn't the one I tested???
The computer is seeing the air temp differance and adding fuel and ( I bet) pulling timing.
I don't understand.
How many miles are on your car? If under 1000, I'd re-dyno @ 2000 to see what's up. If more, then I have no clue!:confused:

As you can see it was a solid 13 A/F stock but not with the RAI. The stock run was at 2000 miles, and the RAI run was at 3900 miles. During the RAI run the A/F was down in the 12 zone. If you check the dyno charts close, you'll see the miles and dates noted. Also, just FYI all numbers are SAE corrected.

Did you guys put miles on the car before the dyno run, or just install and dyno?

[redgt2002]

Warp
-did the dyno have a fan running in front of the car?
-What was your temp and humidity?

[Warp1]

Originally posted by redgt2002
Warp
-did the dyno have a fan running in front of the car?
-What was your temp and humidity?

It had two small fans in front of the car. Numbers were SAE corrected. I would think air temp and humidity wouldn't matter much because of that. Temp that day was I think mid to upper 70's, and humidity around 52%.

But, Chris took "snapshots" of the conditions right before each pull using his computer/dyno. That enables the SAE corrections. I would think that would invalidate any conditions argument.

[Warp1]

Originally posted by Tucker
It's pig rich, but why wasn't the one I tested???
The computer is seeing the air temp differance and adding fuel and ( I bet) pulling timing.
I don't understand.
How many miles are on your car? If under 1000, I'd re-dyno @ 2000 to see what's up. If more, then I have no clue!:confused:

Jay, do you have any recommendations as to how to get the A/F back in line? I'll bet if the A/F were still a solid 13 with the RAI it would produce the numbers that you saw on your test vehicle.

I posted a pic of the install and can post more if needed, just so you/others can look and see if anything looks weird. I checked everything, and it's tight.

[fanofstang]

Originally posted by Warp1
In recent rains we've had cars floating off the road. I think that's deep enough to bring some concern when you only have one car and it's your daily driver. Not that it happens a lot, but it does happen. i'd trade the mach in for a boat and not worry about the location of air filters :D

[03ZincMach1]

heres how i look at it. You got the same/better gains than mrt and K&N for half of the price.

[GrimlokTT]

Sounds like we should get dyno results from another member...

[1badstang]

I'd aim for 12.5 as a nice safe A/F but thats your call

[1badstang]

the fitment of the kit looks odd to me for some reason, I noticed the MAF is turned too

[Warp1]

Originally posted by 03ZincMach1
heres how i look at it. You got the same/better gains than mrt and K&N for half of the price.

I agree with you, but if I can figure out what's going on and what the differences are, then maybe I can gain that power back. The JLT test Mach put out 289HP and 322lbs of torque. That HP figure seems fine but 322 lbs of torque, when mine is only making 310? I think 12 lbs of torque is worth looking into, especially when it's that way throughout the RPM range on their dyno. Go here (http://www.jlttruecoldair.com/Dyno%20Page.htm) and scroll down to see their dyno. The before and after HP and torque lines never even touch. Now thats what I want, and that's why I'm trying to figure out what is wrong. :THUMBSUP:

[Warp1]

Originally posted by 1badstang
the fitment of the kit looks odd to me for some reason, I noticed the MAF is turned too

Do you think that the performance could be affected by the maf being turned? Anything else you see? If so, let me know - that's like 10 minutes and a wrench to change that.

[1badstang]

the rotation of the meter can make a difference in the air fuel ratio. Try putting the meter straight instead of angle

[Warp1]

Originally posted by 1badstang
the rotation of the meter can make a difference in the air fuel ratio. Try putting the meter straight instead of angle

That sounds a bit strange to me that the MAF being slightly rotated would cause any change, but since it would probably look better anyway, I'll check into it.

[Warp1]

Originally posted by 1badstang
the fitment of the kit looks odd to me for some reason, I noticed the MAF is turned too

The way the rubber elbow and the PVC meet up is at a strange angle. That's just the way it is. A little trimming of the rubber elbow and it would look normal.

I also rotated the MAF, so it now is perpendicular to the ground.

Another thing I noticed, though I don't think it would have much effect is that the seal between the MAF and the filter is not extremely tight. It's like the gasket isn't quite thick enough. That's before the MAF though, so I doubt it would affect anything.

I also tightened everything up. Nothing was very loose, but every pipe clamp took a little tightening without much effort.

[1badstang]

I've seen it before, for example densecharger makes a CAI for the 03 cobra that rotates the position of the MAF. The 03 Cobra computer recognizes the change and decides to lean out the system, the leaner you go the more power you'll make but the increased chance of engine damage is possible. The computer is very sensitive it recognizes every change you make to it's system.

[Warp1]

It straight now


New postion MAF (http://members.cox.net/warp1/straigh.jpg)

Old position MAF (http://members.cox.net/warp1/oldview.jpg)

[1badstang]

there you go :CHEERS:

[SnowDeath]

The fender mounted cold air intakes can cause weather problems when driving through a big puddle. My friend had one installed on his 96 gt and he went through a large puddle after a flood. He sucked water into the engine. Now his gt is out of commission :( He bent a rod.

[H-TownMachI]

Warp1, which filter did you get with your RAI kit? When I ordered mine Jay said he was out of the 9" filters so I got the UPR filter.

[redgt2002]

Yeah does anyone know if K&N filter E-0945 will fit with the RAI?

[1badstang]

E-0945 Is the stock replacement filter right? if so it won't...

[ShakeMe]

This is just a joke. Buy a honda to drive in the rain, that's what they are made for. Leave the "Good" cars for nice weather:p

I'm from LA. so the flash flood weather was typical. Given Warps situation the kit he has is best for his location.

I have the Predator and at the track yesterday I noticed a few things once I looked at the datalog. These new computers are SUPER SENSITIVE. Even though I was running about 96-97 octane, during the run the ECT went from 190 to 192 degrees. At the exact same time the computer pulled a little timing. The timing was put back on the 3-4 shift and stayed until the traps. A 13.103 @ 103.36 mph. That was my last run. The first run was done when the motor was luke warm 170-180 degrees. A 13.014 @ 104.89 mph.

So just maybe when you did the dyno with the JLT, the computer didn't like something and added more fuel. It could have been the rotation of the MAS.

[Tucker]

Originally posted by H-TownMachI
Warp1, which filter did you get with your RAI kit? When I ordered mine Jay said he was out of the 9" filters so I got the UPR filter.
He has a Pro-m oil less filter on his. It's what I had when his order went out.(warp1 NO OIL, wash with water!!) These is a great filter! I've change filters a few times, but now have S&B's coming in 2 weeks. These I will be staying with.

The thing is that filter is the same kind of filter I did the test on the other car with.
Like Shakeme said, the computer does crazy things when it sences something differant. Timing and fuel will kill HP / TQ.
MAF position may also play a role on these cars.?!
I still don't know!

[Warp1]

Well now that I have the MAF reoriented, I've driven it about 15 miles. It seems pretty responsive, but of course I can't take it to the dyno again to check it - not just the money factor, but it's also Sunday.

I may dyno again sometime, but doubt I'd do it before another mod. I spent $50 bucks just to get the info I already gave you guys. I am thinking about making the switch to RoyalPurple full synthetic oil. I read that many people have gotten anywhere from 5 HP to 10 HP just doing that. If I do switch, I'll probably dyno again. :THUMBSUP: Maybe by that time we will see a difference. Also, I'm still driving this thing like I stole it, so if the computer can take a hint, it will.

Ah, who knows, maybe when I get paid again I'll dyno again. Let me know what you guys think. I'd sure like to see the numbers Jay got. He seems like a good guy, and I believe he is being truthful. :THUMBSUP:

Of course if you guys just paypal me, I'll dyno all you want! Kidding... :CHEERS:

[ttown]

Originally posted by Warp1
Well now that I have the MAF reoriented, I've driven it about 15 miles. It seems pretty responsive, but of course I can't take it to the dyno again to check it - not just the money factor, but it's also Sunday.

I may dyno again sometime, but doubt I'd do it before another mod. I spent $50 bucks just to get the info I already gave you guys. I am thinking about making the switch to RoyalPurple full synthetic oil. I read that many people have gotten anywhere from 5 HP to 10 HP just doing that. If I do switch, I'll probably dyno again. :THUMBSUP: Maybe by that time we will see a difference. Also, I'm still driving this thing like I stole it, so if the computer can take a hint, it will.

Ah, who knows, maybe when I get paid again I'll dyno again. Let me know what you guys think. I'd sure like to see the numbers Jay got. He seems like a good guy, and I believe he is being truthful. :THUMBSUP::CHEERS:

I'll be going to Tulsa dyno soon and once my son get his preditor he will need to also. If we get 4 people we may get a price break, if your interested let me know we'll have 2 preditors and could play around with them on your car too.

[MAC[H]Z]

My RAI should be in next week and I have a bud that owns a new dynojet soI'm going to spend some time on the rollers and see what I gain....

[Tucker]

Originally posted by MAC[H]Z
My RAI should be in next week and I have a bud that owns a new dynojet soI'm going to spend some time on the rollers and see what I gain....
I'm shipping it tomorrow.
What is the K&N aircharger? Drop in or like the FIPK? With the exhaust you have there should be a good gain. I hope for the best.
I may try and find another local MACH and do another test for my own satisfaction.

Warp1: I hope it all works out in the end. Hey it looks good on there!:CHEERS:

[03ZincMach1]

Originally posted by MAC[H]Z
My RAI should be in next week and I have a bud that owns a new dynojet soI'm going to spend some time on the rollers and see what I gain....

cant wait. mine is on its way but im not sure when i will have it. hopefully by this friday

[Tucker]

Originally posted by 03ZincMach1
cant wait. mine is on its way but im not sure when i will have it. hopefully by this friday
Yours shipped Friday. You'll see it Tuesday or Wed.

[GrimlokTT]

Originally posted by Tucker
I may try and find another local MACH and do another test for my own satisfaction.

Where is your local area? It's not in your sig...:eek:

[MAC[H]Z]

Originally posted by Tucker
I'm shipping it tomorrow.
What is the K&N aircharger? Drop in or like the FIPK? With the exhaust you have there should be a good gain. I hope for the best.


The K&N is like the FIPK, I sold it to buy one of yours. I dyno all the time so I get a good idea of what works and what doesn't.. If I can gain over 5HP and 5TQ I will be a happy customer.

I read some of the HP gains some people are getting with different products and I just sit back and laugh, I mean I have seen claims of 30+HP with a cat back, 25+HP with a CAI and even some trying to claim that their bone stock mach puts down 300+HP and 315+TQ. I'm sure the dyno did show a 20+HP gain but was it the same dyno? was it the only change made to the car?

So with that said I think if I can gain 5+HP and 5+TQ for $155 I think it was well worth the money and extra is a bonus.

[1badstang]

:agree:

MACHZ I completely agree with everything you said. I've watched plenty of dynos. I haven't seen a mach 1 without headers break 300 HP. my buddy made 290 with a h-pipe cat-back, php air box and a tune. the other 3 machs I watched all had headers, one pulled 309, 307 and 305

[redgt2002]

without headers? im right there with a
-prochamber
-magnaflow catback
-drop in K&N filter

SAE#'s in sig

[H-TownMachI]

Originally posted by MAC[H]Z


So with that said I think if I can gain 5+HP and 5+TQ for $155 I think it was well worth the money and extra is a bonus.

I hear ya! And it makes the engine bay look better too in my opinion.

[Tucker]

Originally posted by MAC[H]Z
I'm sure the dyno did show a 20+HP gain but was it the same dyno? was it the only change made to the car?


Heck, the car was never un straped from the dyno. Stock, then RAI, then CAI, all with in 1.5hrs.
Only change.

Well all the kits are boxed up and will ship tomorrow. :D
Thanks all!

[MAC[H]Z]

Originally posted by Tucker
Heck, the car was never un straped from the dyno. Stock, then RAI, then CAI, all with in 1.5hrs.
Only change.

Well all the kits are boxed up and will ship tomorrow. :D
Thanks all!

That comment I made wasn't made towards your claims...... I think the only true way to get a accurate HP reading is to do just what you did (make the changes on the dyno)

I don't think people understand how much 10 RWHP is on the track. I have 290HP and 03AV8R has about 308HP, yes his car is lighter but after we take off he gets me out of the hole a bit then walks me all the way down the track (Bad) with only 18 more HP..

[Tucker]

I totally agree!:CHEERS:

[BLKCLOUD]

6 RWHP is a good, solid gain for a RAI/CAI system. I'd be quite pleased to see that.

It is possible that nothing is wrong, and that the car gained more (or less) than is shown. Why? Well, while you did the runs on the same dyno (which is good), you did not do them on the same day. A lot of things could have happened in 2 1/2 months to both your car and/or the dyno itself. Different or bad gas, the dyno needed some sort of maintenance, the weather instruments in the dyno went out of calibration, whatever. These are variables that may (or may not) affect the outcome of the test.

[Keith.red.mach1]

I know on my old Cobra there were several instances that people rotated mass air meters and gained more power or less.

The placement of the mass air meter might have had a little to do with it.

With dynos its like going to the track.....so many variables.



BOB COSBY...any advice for us Mach guys.....we all know you know your stuff. Hell when you go to LS1.com and they respect you.

[Warp1]

Originally posted by BLKCLOUD
6 RWHP is a good, solid gain for a RAI/CAI system. I'd be quite pleased to see that.

It is possible that nothing is wrong, and that the car gained more (or less) than is shown. Why? Well, while you did the runs on the same dyno (which is good), you did not do them on the same day. A lot of things could have happened in 2 1/2 months to both your car and/or the dyno itself. Different or bad gas, the dyno needed some sort of maintenance, the weather instruments in the dyno went out of calibration, whatever. These are variables that may (or may not) affect the outcome of the test.

I'd say that is a possibility.

In that spirit I have to bring up that maybe if I had swapped the intake on the dyno, on the day that I had first dyno'd, that the computer in the car wouldn't have had time on that next dyno pull or two to change A/F, timing, etc. fast enough to show what will be happening miles down the road. Maybe that very next run on the dyno would have shown some great gains before the computer started adding fuel etc. and began detuning the engine as it saw necessary.

There are probably as many variables when leaving the car on the dyno for the swap, as I had in waiting a few months - so I can't really give your ideas of what might be, any more validity than my experience of what measureably was.

No offense, just a point.

[Angus66]

So was the car ever re-dynoed???

[1badstang]

If the computer hasn't compinsated for it yet it's not going to at all. The computer is not very good at tuning it's self, thats why we have guys who tune and tell the computer what to do.

[Warp1]

I haven't dyno'd it again. The power losses and trouble I went to messing with it kinda got me out of the modding mood. Actually there is multiple reasons I haven't gotten back into testing this, including the fact that I don't think I'd want to go back to the dyno without a Predator.

If I get back into testing this I'll probably dyno it as stock, then install the intake right off and dyno again. Of course I'd probably want to at least have a Predator available as I mentioned.

If I were independently wealthy, and had a bunch of time on my hands, I'd already have some answers. :)

Whatever I do, I'll let you guys know.

[southbeachmach1]

I have before and after Dyno results of a JLT RAI + PHP intake Spacer.

If anyone wants to see I would be glad to post them if you don't take my word for it. I gained about 8hp and Torque peak but there are several areas where I gained as much as 15 hp and tq. Not to mention the gain was throughout the entire power curve....and better yet I picked up over 2/10's and a solid mile MPH on the drag strip. Before spacer and RAI, 13.30 @ 106.58 w/2.1 60ft., after 13.09 @ 107.68 w/ 2.08 60ft. This was from the combo of the two mods though. Name any other combo of mods that would yield that kind of gain for less than $250.00.

After I installed the mods I took about a 400 mph drive round trip and before the trip I could not feel hardly any difference with the mods installed. After 200 miles when I got to my destination and began doing stop light take off's I felt a very noticable difference in performance.

Hope this helps!

[RAZOR Z]

After I installed the mods I took about a 400 mph drive

I'll have what he's havin'!

[southbeachmach1]

A little typo there. 400 miles...:LAUGH:

[Tucker]

Great to hear!
Thanks
Jay

[southbeachmach1]

Tucker,

I think the kit is a good design and I think there are some proven positive results. From a bone stock setup to just having your kit installed I'm sure the gains would be greater than mine, mainly because of the restrictive paper filter. I had a K&N drop in previously.

My only complaint that maybe you or someone can help me with is that the rubber adapter that attaches the MAF to the large plastic cylinder (the painted part) seems to rest against the valve cover. I stuck a piece of rubber in there to insulate it from contact and heat.

One more issue, which is not a design flaw on your part. After I installed the intake spacer ofcourse your whole kit now resides a 1/2 inch higher and closer to the hood causing the rubber attaching to the throttle body to rub against the insulation under the hood, shouldn't be a problem other than the fact that it's tearing up the insulation a little under the hood.

Big plus, the car has never stalled after the installation - I know a lot people are changing out their MAF's - A bad side effect is the car stalling on a regular basis and from what I have heard the C&L kit just leans the mixture out to get a power gain, which could be dangerous.

Over all, good job on the kit, you definitley did some good design work, and have done your best to prove results to your customers. Unfortunatley there are some people that you can never please or convince.

:CHEERS:

[Warp1]

I would just like to say that I like the kit in general as well. All cars respond differently, and I think mine would show some nice gains with this kit and a tune. I still don't have a Predator to test this out with though.