Care and feeding of matte black surfaces

[Tanklawyer]

One question for the more experienced among us. This is the first car I have ever owned with matte black surfaces. How exactly does one care for them? I of course will not apply waxes or polishes. But what about a turtle wax was/soap that includes a wax? I assume that I should avoid this, yes?

Any recommendations to folks who were there years ago when matte stickers abounded would be appreciated.

Thanks!

B.

[TRMach1]

I asked the guy who did the PDI on my car specifically about the hood decal. He said when it comes to wax, stay away from it and the same for the areas around the side mirrors, front and rear spoilers. He said that if you should get any wax on those areas, use a mild household soap and water to remove it.

What bothers me is since we live in the Mid Atlantic area, it sometimes is just plain too cold to wash the car by hand, so a car wash is the only alternative and I usually get the "works" that includes that liquid wax, and I'm not sure what that will do to those areas. Maybe I should just stick with a plain wash when doing it at the car wash?

[Walt]

Originally posted by Black98GT
... and I usually get the "works" that includes that liquid wax, and I'm not sure what that will do to those areas

Is that "stuff" really wax?

[02mach1]

I take mine Mustang to carwash and pay $1.25 and do it myshelf

to wash my car then use that Express wax of Turtle wax on in the winter time .

[Venmous28]

definitely dont, i mean DO NOT, take a mach to the car wash...

if you absolutely have too..take it to a touchless or do it yourself jobs and dont use the brush...

then when it gets warm enough to wash it...then wash it by hand...with a soft cloth like a baby diaper or the such...

[02mach1]

Originally posted by Venmous28
definitely dont, i mean DO NOT, take a mach to the car wash...

if you absolutely have too..take it to a touchless or do it yourself jobs and dont use the brush...

then when it gets warm enough to wash it...then wash it by hand...with a soft cloth like a baby diaper or the such...

That's what I'am talking about:THUMBSUP:

[Mustang Matt]

The spray liquid waxes are a joke. I would even stay away from the non-touch car washs because sometimes there is still dirt left on the car and when it comes time to dry....
There's nothing better than an applied paste wax. Yes its more work, but its worth it.

[Verk]

Originally posted by Black98GT
I asked the guy who did the PDI on my car specifically about the hood decal. He said when it comes to wax, stay away from it and the same for the areas around the side mirrors, front and rear spoilers. He said that if you should get any wax on those areas, use a mild household soap and water to remove it.

What bothers me is since we live in the Mid Atlantic area, it sometimes is just plain too cold to wash the car by hand, so a car wash is the only alternative and I usually get the "works" that includes that liquid wax, and I'm not sure what that will do to those areas. Maybe I should just stick with a plain wash when doing it at the car wash?

Did the guy give a reason? Can't see where wax is going to hurt it especially the rear spoiler, its just flat black paint. Anyway, the guy may be right but I guess I would kind of like to know the reason behind his recommendation. :confused:

[WarpdSpazm]

it'd leave a "shine" on what should be dull ?????

i figured that's the only reason NOT to put wax on them.... aside from the likely build up of wax on the edges....

[03elanor]

My 00Gt Had the hood decals and I always waxed right over them. (Yes I am lazy) It was much easier and never hurt them. The only down side is that where the paint meets the stripe it sometimes hard to remove the wax but either way this will be the case. I will be waxing over mine and I doubt it will have any ill effects.

[Vegas Mach1]

Shouldn't we move this to Detailing Tips?
I posted a link to a good article about car care.

[Mach 1 Fever]

I had a bad experience at the car wash with my 86GT. It also had tape stripes on the hood. I would use the high pressure hose in the winter to keep the car clean and after a while, the stripes started to come off. So I would stay away from that, or if you must use it, be careful and hold the wand a good distance away when you get near the stripes.

[CrissyCobra]

Buy 2 extra soft childrens toothbrushes....every car of mine
has Barbie toothbrushes....one for outside getting the wax
dust out of the cracks (around stripes) and one for interior
detailing. It doesn't have to be Barbie---but mine seem to
prefer them. :D

[Jc'S MaCh 1]

All I use is Klasse on my cars. You can put it on windows, black trims, just about anything and it works for months and months without doing anything to it. The protection is amazing and I will use nothing but. I use the 2 step process and my car still shines to this day even after the touchless crap washes that I go through to simply get some salt off.....

Jc

[Walt]

Originally posted by 03elanor
My 00Gt Had the hood decals and I always waxed right over them. (Yes I am lazy) It was much easier and never hurt them.

I think the significant difference is that your hood decals are
glossy or shiny. Whereas the Mach has a flat decal. It is
the "flatness" which leads to the suggestion to not wax it.

I remember making that mistake with my father's '71 Maverick
Grabber. I waxed the car, including the flat black hood paint. :(

[POLSMACH03]

I'm going to send Sal Zaino an email on this and get his input. Whatever he says is what I'm doing.

[mustanger]

Yes Pol,Please let us know what Sal has to say.I have all the Zaino products setting on the shelf, just waiting for my azure blue Mach1.Problem is,think he'll know whats best since he's probably never seen the Mach1 decals ??

[FLYN_MACH1]

I wrote Sal Zaino earlier this week and this is what he said...

Martin wrote:

I am about to purchase a new 2003 Ford Mach 1 Mustang and am also looking at getting some of your products for it in the near future.

I have one question regarding the care and cleaning of the hood and side stripe decals that will be on the car.I believe that they are a flat or semi-gloss black. If I am to use your products, what would be your recommendation for the protection and cleaning of these parts of my new vehicle?

Response:

You're going love Zaino especially on all those decals. Zaino Show

Car Polish works great on all vinyl decals. It is non-abrasive, leaves
no white residue or wax buildup and actually makes the decals last
longer. It's UV40 protectant will keep the decals from shrinking, fading
and drying out. Plus it will make the decals look like they have a clear
coat over them. Try it on all the decals you'll love it.

-----------

I certainly hope that using their products won't alter the look of the original decal...at least not to make something flat colored to a glossly finish.

[Azure]

Here are my tips. Keep in mind I've been detailing cars for shows for years. Cars from all factory Mustangs with flat black stripes to a GTO that actually used black primer for accents.

1) Never get wax on the flat black areas. By wax I'm talking about any product that leaves a white residue on your towel when buffing. Polymers won't hurt but will slightly change the appearance.
2) Polymer polishes are fine for the decals and smooth flat paints but not the flat plastics. If you use them on one part of a decal you have to use it everywhere to make it look right.
3) Some car polish is durable and some aren't. I like the Zanio products but they are time consuming to use. The plus is that once they are on they only require occasional reapplication.
4) The Mothers products are good. The yellow paintable polish will out shine anything but will wash off in the rain.
5) Spray on car wax is junk. Carnuba wax is difficult to use and doesn't last long. Stay away from Zymol. It's a bear to use.
6) To remove wax and polish from flat black areas use a cotton swab and rubbing alcohol. Just remember that this will take the wax off the paint also.
7) Mothers Back to Black is the best product I've found for exterior flat and semi gloss black surfaces. You can use it on plastic, rubber moldings, & decals. The down side is that it’s not very durable.
8) For a daily driven car I'd use a polymer-based polish such as Zanio and spend a week doing it right. Polish all surfaces that aren't plastic. Apply Back to Black on the plastic and re-apply when you wash the car.

Hope this helps.

[POLSMACH03]

That's the end of this thread. This man tells no lies!!!!

[03elanor]

Walt: Quote

I think the significant difference is that your hood decals are
glossy or shiny. Whereas the Mach has a flat decal. It is
the "flatness" which leads to the suggestion to not wax it.

uhmm NO there were not glossy or shiny

And Azure--- Zymol is a bear to use????:SMASH:

this was probably the easiest car wax I ever used. Although it doesn't last all that long, but it smells nice:D

[MOMach1]

I guess this makes me the test dummy. I polished and waxed the Mach1 this weekend using the Mequiar's three step system. I polished all the blue paint and chrome, wiped off, then waxed everything (except the plastic) including the decals, then used the quick detail spray after I wiped off the wax.

I didn't notice any distortion but the decals and spoiler are a tiny bit more shiny than before which I think is worth it because I believe that a good coat of wax (two or three on the hood and front bumper) can help prevent chips and nicks.

I also used leather wipes on the interior and the dark leather REALLY looks good now.

I love this car! :p

[Tanklawyer]

MoMach:

It would be great if you could post a photo or two so that we can take a look at the black surfaces after the treatment you describe.

Thanks!

[Azure]

O3elanor
It has been my experience that Zymol takes a bit of buffing to get a good shine out of it. (If it's cool out it's even worse) You can just wipe it off but it won't shine like other easier to use polishes without buffing. If you use a power buffer then it may take some of the work out of it. Then again, if it doesn't last why bother, unless you like the smell.:D

[Walt]

Originally posted by 03elanor
uhmm NO there were not glossy or shiny


Whoops, sorry. Then you don't have the "GT" hood
stripes I remember seeing. Those weren't a flat-black.

[Walt]

Originally posted by MOMach1
I guess this makes me the test dummy. I polished and waxed the Mach1 this weekend using the Mequiar's three step system. I polished all the blue paint and chrome, wiped off, then waxed everything (except the plastic) including the decals, then used the quick detail spray after I wiped off the wax.


That leads to an interesting question. I have always allowed
any brand-new car to "dry" for a month or two before waxing it.

Are you suppose to wait? And if so, for how long after
manufacture?

[69mach03]

DO NOT, DOOOOO NOT put wax on the hood decal, side decals, cowl area, mirrors, and spoiler. I had a mighty good time cleaning the wax off my 69's hood. I would highly recommend the use of: MEGUIAR'S QUIK DETAILER.


Hmm, I think this is the 4th time I've written a post similar to this.

[69mach03]

:THUMBSUP:

[Skoozo]

Remember, though, that the '69 Mach had a painted hood. Ford assembly lines had a fixture with the hood stencil, and literally painted over the already painted hood with the black paint. It is rough like sandpaper, so I can't imagine what it is like to remove wax from that thing.:eek:

The '03 is, as mentioned above, a decal. I agree, I wouldn't directly wax it, but it won't be near as bad fixing it as it is on the '69.

Walt mentioned about waxing. As my car was about to be prepped, the guys in the wash bay were questioning whether the Mach 1s get waxed before delivery. I guess it is part of the deal that when you buy an SVT, when you take it in for service, you get the interior vacuumed, and a free wash and wax. They also mentioned that the only cars that get waxed before delivery are the SVT's. Since my car had to have some touch up work done with the paint, they asked the body shop if they should wax it, or just wait until the body work was done. The body shop guys almost had a heart attack. They said don't wax it until about 90 days after the car was built.

I wonder how many SVTs have had their clear coat screwed up!!

[02mach1]

Originally posted by Skoozo
Remember, though, that the '69 Mach had a painted hood. Ford assembly lines had a fixture with the hood stencil, and literally painted over the already painted hood with the black paint. It is rough like sandpaper, so I can't imagine what it is like to remove wax from that thing.:eek:

The '03 is, as mentioned above, a decal. I agree, I wouldn't directly wax it, but it won't be near as bad fixing it as it is on the '69.

Walt mentioned about waxing. As my car was about to be prepped, the guys in the wash bay were questioning whether the Mach 1s get waxed before delivery. I guess it is part of the deal that when you buy an SVT, when you take it in for service, you get the interior vacuumed, and a free wash and wax. They also mentioned that the only cars that get waxed before delivery are the SVT's. Since my car had to have some touch up work done with the paint, they asked the body shop if they should wax it, or just wait until the body work was done. The body shop guys almost had a heart attack. They said don't wax it until about 90 days after the car was built.

I wonder how many SVTs have had their clear coat screwed up!!

Your right Skoozo! My friend who restored and painted my Bright red 89 Mustang, he said do not wax new paint on car for 90 days .

So my Mach1 week half old, I will wax Mach1 in mid Feb.

On hood decal I remember the guy off Motorweek Pat Gross said for decals on hood or on the car , he said use Pledge on the decals. gust what it works;)

[Walt]

Originally posted by Skoozo
The body shop guys almost had a heart attack. They said don't wax it until about 90 days after the car was built.


Thanks for the clarification!

I knew one should wait, but never really had an idea of how long to wait. Since I got my car within hours of it rolling off the truck, the paint was (is?) still rather "fresh".

[MOMach1]

Here's a pic of the hood section after 1 polish and 2 wax applications. It doesn't seem, to me, to have lost much (if any) of the matte effect.

[Verk]

Originally posted by MOMach1
Here's a pic of the hood section after 1 polish and 2 wax applications. It doesn't seem, to me, to have lost much (if any) of the matte effect.

Like you, I have waxed my car three times with Zaino including the decal on the hood....no problems. I have been using Zaino for several years and will use nothing else. It goes on easy and comes off with very little effort and best of all.....no residue!

This stuff really brings the best of the Azure blue out. I'm loving this color more and more each day.

[gomachin]

My husband and I own a John Deere dealership, for shows and for the showroom, we were told to use Pledge after detailing for a really good shine to the lawn mowers and tractors. We noticed after a period of time, it left a greasy film along with attracting dirt and grime. When our new Service Mgr. came to work for us he had a fit about the Pledge being used. We also have the decals to deal with on our machines. Of course, they are yellow, not flat black. So for three years now we are Pledge free. He used to be Service Mgr. for Corvettes of Houston, so he knows cars. He and his son are fixing up a (69?)Nova now, in addition to being on a race team. I will ask him on Monday what to do about flat black stripes. And, oh yeah, he loves my new Mach 1, even though he's a Chevy Man. I will do some investigating on this paint and stripe thing before I touch anything on my Mach.