Don't want to snap the spark plug off in the head

[Stopsign32v]

Any tips? I'm going to take out the stock plugs tomorrow and replace them. Got some anti seize but I'm worried about the ones in the motor breaking while I'm taking them out. Should the motor be cold or hot when I remove them? Because I've heard both...

[kelidd]

I did mine a few weeks ago.. i drove mine and then let it sit for an hour and then removed the plugs didn't have an issue.... i was shocked considering my mach has just at 100k miles and had the factory plugs in it:angry:

[Bmeagher]

You`ll be already.....lucky it`s not a 05-08 3v!! I never heard of anyone breaking a plug off in a 4v.

[littlemags]

yeah...i dont think you will have any issues....

[LineageMach1]

Heating them up then trying might not be the best idea. Take it out cold and just go slow, isnt much else that can be done.

Heat expands metal so not a great idea considering both the plug and the metal around the plug will be about same temp. Many a new airmen have stapped of random bolts/plugs etc by trying to take something off while hot.

Are you asking because you saw rust or corrosion around the plugs? If so maybe try a little penetrating fluid and let set for a few hours.

[Tyson]

I had one stuck when I first bought my Mach so I spraid sea foam penatration stuff let it soak a few hours then got my baby impact and put it on the lowest setting and came right out

[311-420]

A cold engine is the correct way. Heated/swollen aluminum heads squeezing the plugs is no bueno.

[mach1z]

I had one stuck when I first bought my Mach so I spraid sea foam penatration stuff let it soak a few hours then got my baby impact and put it on the lowest setting and came right out

You got balls ! I would never use an impact on an aluminum head.

[Stopsign32v]

Amazed the factory didn't use anti seize. They were not that easy to come out and I was nervous as hell. Got them out and the TR6's in and I must say, I like! :D

[LineageMach1]

You got balls ! I would never use an impact on an aluminum head.

True, wouldnt use impact on aluminum. But as long as you dont use impact to screw something IN your good, that is a definate wish for messed up threads.

Glad you were able to get the plugs out no problem, but anti-sieze on plugs or anything that requires a torque would and could be disasterous, imagine your spark plug backing out over time and eventually one day your at the track at 5500 rpm and the plug finally comes out, bad stuff.

[Stopsign32v]

Call me dumb but I didn't torque the plugs in. Just got them in and then lightly snugged them in.

[twystyd]

Call me dumb but I didn't torque the plugs in. Just got them in and then lightly snugged them in.

I did the same thing yesterday. Stock plugs were still in. Swapped them with NGK's yesterday. The stock ones were pretty tight and I was worried about snapping one too. I just applied gradual force and they all finally came loose. No problems what so ever.

[LineageMach1]

Call me dumb but I didn't torque the plugs in. Just got them in and then lightly snugged them in.

That's how I'd do it as well, but no anti-sieze for sure.

I was building a compressor up yesterday and brass parts everywhere, I hate working with brass, just one wrong turn and you get crossed threads heh.

I was little too cautious though as one of the fitting was not seated and 150 psi came flyin out lol, scared the scap outa me. Took it back off, stuck more teflon tape on and tightened a bit more and working compressor :)

Torquing things to spec is a habit of mine I picked up working on military flightline heh, we either have to torque everything or safety wire... most of the times both lol. Hard habit to break as I've seen some pretty bad failures due to not torquing to specs but those were usually chassis and running gear and internal hydraulic/pneumatic parts and internal engine parts.

Once had an airman not torque a turbine engine to spec on something we call a -60 turbine generator and he ran it and about 2 minutes into the run me and another nco hear the loudest screaching noise that we recognized as bearings but, we never thought we would see the day a turbine going over 100,000 rpm after the oil leaked out... that was a bad night. Good times :)

[LXS]

Just curious, but why wouldn't you use anti-seize? It's there to prevent the two materials from bonding and becoming one, right? I've always used it and never had any issues :OUCH:

As for tightening, I usually keep turning the ratchet until it becomes tight/fairly snug. Then give it an extra 1/4 to half turn and it's good to go! :)

[LineageMach1]

Problem with anti-sieze is using it then not tightening to right torque. Unless you have a calibrated hand/wrist it's hard to know how close to the torque you are.

I'm not against anti-sieze but you have to use the right stuff. Some anti seize wont withstand the heat and break down while some have metals in them and can cause corrosion if it is used in the wrong application.

Again, I've seen it quite a few times in my career... tech data requires anti-seize but if you dont torque it right and it's below the proper torque value in time the item in question may come loose.

It's better to be safe than sorry when it comes down to it. If anti-seize compound is being used on the plugs or whatever the application is just ensure it is the right kind and torque to be on the safe side.

I tend to use anti-seize that is moly-b based as it doesnt have the copper some other compounds have which can cause corrosion in time, especially after thermal break down (which really only happens if you use the wrong type that cannot tolerate the heat generated by the engine.

So ya, I'm not against it in the least but if I were to give my advice I would have to say use the right stuff and torque to the right values. Theres a reason eggheads put torque values on engine parts heh.

P.S. I know this sounds like a no brainer but if using anti-seize make sure it's anti-seize and not locking fluid /loc-tite, I've seen that happen a lot as well and that never ends well heh. Some anti-seize comes in the same bottle as loc-tite and the colors can be the same as well, easy to mix up. But with moly-b it's kinda hard to mix that up with anything else :)

[LineageMach1]

Here I found this. Some person emailed AC Delco tech support and asked the question and this is what they wrote back.

"We do not recommend the use of any anti seize products for installing spark plugs. Anti seize compounds are typically composed of metallic,
electrically conductive ingredients. If anti seize compounds come in
contact with the core nose of the plugs, it can lead to a misfire condition.
Anti seize compounds can also have a torque multiplying effect when
installing plugs. This can lead to thread distortion and thread galling
resulting in cylinder head damage. Autolite spark plugs are nickel plated
to resist the effects of corrosion and seizing. However, plug seizure is
aggravated further when steel plugs are installed into aluminum cylinder
heads for a long period of time.

According to our data, the ATi64 is the Titanium spark plug recommendation
for the 1990 Volvo 740 2.3L FI engine. The inclusion of Titanium in spark
plug design was chosen for it's anti seizing properties. You may want to
consider the ATi64 along with periodic inspection of the plugs to reduce the likelihood of plug seizure during extended plug service intervals.

Thank you for choosing Autolite spark plugs.

Cordially,

Scott Jacobs
Catalog/Technical Service Representative

[cojc]

Changed mine a couple months ago and with 69k on it they looked like the original plugs.
Very easy change with no problems. Used anti-seize as per many who said it was a good way to do it.
Have not read on this forum where it has caused a problem unless I missed. it.
I used a torque wrench on mine.